Friday, February 18, 2011

New York, Part 1

I hope I haven't inconvenienced anyone by delaying my post on New York Fashion Week until it has been finished! I (rightly) anticipated that The Brasch would have a busy week, and was quite certain that I wouldn't be able to keep up with her as I did in Barcelona... But here you have it, a successful week over seas, and we're ready to head to London! Here's a rundown of Caroline's week in the Big Apple:

Caro hit the ground running in New York, starting with two looks at BCBG Max Azria. I've always loved her at BCBG; something about the minimalist look really works with her face, I suppose. No surprises with the BCBG collection this season; Azria keeps on keeping on with the same aesthetic he's been working for a few seasons now. No complaints from this corner, mind you.


She followed BCBG up with a stellar performance at Richard Chai Love, which is an appropriate title, I feel. The comfortable, chic, menswear-inspired looks that we see from Chai each season are consistent but not annoyingly so. Caroline had one look at Love, which was all that was afforded to any of the models at the show (in case anyone was heatedly thinking she should have had more :P). Also, it was a tight squeeze getting to Richard Chai in time after BCBG... Their start times were only an hour apart!


That was the end of the day for Caroline (if you can call a day quits at 12:30PM, anyway... I hope she had herself a cat nap in there somewhere), but she returned to the runway for Jason Wu on Friday. She played the part of walking ball of feathers excellently, I have to say. I was quite intrigued with the lace face masques, myself, and pleased with the mystery they added the collection. I was also struck by how present Caroline's eyes were, despite being covered over like that. They really stood out in a piercing sort of way that was almost arresting.


I was expecting to see her at Rag & Bone later in the day, and was a little disappointed to see that she didn't walk. When I later came across pictures of her backstage at Rag & Bone, I was even more confused by her absence from the runway. It was later revealed that she had taken ill, so I suppose this was the reason for her skipping the show, though it was clearly a last minute decision, as she did arrive at 82 Mercer with the intention of taking to the runway, it seems.

Saturday was the dawn of a new day, and a newly energized Caro made up for lost time with shows at Edun,  Jill Stuart, Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang, AND Altuzarra. Loooordie, I get exhausted just by thinking about it, especially after her sick day. But I suppose this is the way the business works, after all.

At Edun, The Brasch had two looks. I was particularly fond of the second one, in black. The tribal influences in the cut aways were kind of cool, and their placement complimented her body very nicely.


Jill Stuart saw another two looks added to the day's tally, and a repeat of the favouring of the red-orange colour on Caroline (previously noted at BCBG). Oranges and brown were very central to Stuart's collection, which incorporated a woodland feel with owl and fox prints on various pieces (you see one example in Caroline's first look, below).


At Prabal Gurung, Caroline had two more looks on the day. Her first was a knee-length dress with an embellished, loose-fitting bodice and drop waist, and feathered skirt and sleeves, while her second incorporated a languid, sheer dress, suited with a massive purple fur coat. Gurung was drawing on the Miss Havisham of Dickins' Great Expectations for the collection, which mirrored the character's old elegance, but also the hardness of a woman who's heart has been broken.


The Brasch had one look at Alexander Wang, where the designer made to mock luxury, and succeeded in doing so. But he also managed to make his perversion look beyond cool and very wearable. So we don't feel too badly about our indulgences. However, Caroline's heel is looking a little worse for wear. I guess that's the price one pays for fashion. Good thing she's "stuck on Bandaid brand".


The day finished with my favorite piece of outerwear that has been shown in New York thus far: a majestic white parka. In keeping with the show's utilitarian theme, this was paired with a heavily embellished white gown and furry heeled sandals. Well, utilitarian in the sense that her upper body was warm, anyway.


Sunday began with Derek Lam at 10:00. At this point, I started wondering if Caroline was ever going to open/close any shows. It seems that she's always second, third, or fourth on the runway, but never first. Harrrumph. No doubt she'll open something... eventually. I also noted the absence of that (arguably) charming cheek sucking. Curiosities abound in New York this season.


Next up was Preen, with a collection that saw designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi continue to create their tailored womenswear looks, this time focusing on the use of a geometric print with floral elements, which I thought really highlighted the blending of femininity with masculine characteristics that has become the label's forte.


A few hours later, she made an appearance at the esteemed Diane von Furstenburg, where she had one look. The print had me chuckling a little bit... No reminders necessary for me, but I'm sure there are plenty of people that need reminding that Caroline has talent in spades. As do you, Madame Furstenburg. 


Sunday was ended with two looks at Tommy Hilfiger, our go-to-guy when it comes to classic American sportswear, here inspired by rocker arm candy. This season, his eminence put the doozie in the details. The Hilfiger girl may look like the rockstar's girlfriend when viewed from afar, and with this collection, it is ensured that her perceived role isn't diminished under the microscope of the paparazzi. Having said that, am I wrong to think that a rockstar's girlfriend would dress less business-like? 


Part 2 in a mo! 

Photos courtesy of vogue.it 

Monday, February 7, 2011

Enjoy the Silence

So it would seem I was overly hasty in my excitement for Copenhagen Fashion Week, at least in terms of my hopes of seeing The Brasch in the Danish capital. It seems she has taken a short break before heading into the madness of New York Fashion Week which starts on Wednesday. I can't say that I begrudge her that... she's had a busy last couple of weeks!

Speaking of New York, we have her showcard from Elite Model Management, which features one of the shots from her recent Valentino campaign. Nothing really special about the design, it's very simple, but it'll do the job I suppose. I regret that Caroline hasn't had more editorials since last fashion season, which would have allowed for a wider selection of photos for her showcard. But I suppose that's just life, isn't it?


But before I depress you all with a lack of news, SPEAKING of editorials...

Caroline has a cover for Vogue Nippon's March 2011 beauty supplement, including an editorial, shot by Jem Mitchell. I'm not sure as to how many shots this will include, but for the moment, we have the cover and two pages. I am pleased that we are getting some presence in at least one March issue of a Vogue magazine, even if it isn't one of the major Western publications from France, Italy, or America. The Asian market is very respectable in its own right, and it is a rapidly growing one as the economies in countries like China and Japan skyrocket. And it seems they have a taste for Danish models, so this will not likely be the last time we see Caroline in the Far East. In fact, I'd wager that her popularity in that region will be quite high before long.


The Brasch will also be featured in an editorial titled "Lipgloss & Cigarettes" in the S/S 2011 issue of LOVE magazine. Shot by Alastair McLellan and styled by Katie Grand, the set also features Barbara Palvin and Duran Duran members Nick Rhodes and John Taylor. Again, we still only have two preview pages, which were oh so thankfully posted by Elite, but the fact that we have a confirmed appearance in a magazine is a comfort to any (like myself) who were wondering where the expected editorials were. I won't analyze any of these pictures until I have the full editorial, so for now, you'll have to do without my comments aside from my exclamations of relief. But hey, if you all have anything to say about them yourselves prior to the release of the full set, please feel free to use the comment section below; I always love hearing from readers, and really enjoy the insight that your opinions offer!


Copenhagen has come and gone, as has Barcelona and Berlin. So book your plane tickets kiddies, we're about to embark on a whirlwind tour of the major fashion cities. Round and round and round it goes; where it stops? Nobody knows.

Photos courtesy of models.com and tFS users mousyy and Zhanna

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Grand Opening, Grand Closing

Yesterday was the last day in Barcelona, and Caroline walked in three shows... But I'll get to those all in good time. Yesterday, she was present on runways at both Justicia Ruano 9PM, and Cardona Bonache. First, Ruano:


Watching the video, Caroline led the finale walk as you see from the picture above. However, I've not yet found pictures of her second look aside from this... I'll post them if and when I do! Because it was the only appearance of this look, I'm tempted to call it a closing look, but I'm not entirely sure?

At Cardona Bonache later in the day, Caroline had one look in what was a futuristic collection by Catalan-based design team Victor Cardona Marques and Israel Frutos Bonache.


The collection was an exploration of the uses of godets in garment construction. Initially developed as a way of providing the clothes with more volume than would otherwise be the case, godets also allowed the wearer a bit more freedom of movement. Essentially, you sew a triangular piece of fabric into vertical slits made in the hem of a skirt or dress to achieve this effect. At Cardona Bonache, however, the technique was applied in a variety of places outside the traditional hemline, appearing on everything from leather jackets and lapels, to being implied by the prints on pieces like Caroline's dress. 

On Wednesday, Caroline walked three shows: Celia Vela, Manuel Bolano, and Yiorgos Elefthriades. Here they are in order of appearance.



The Brasch took two turns at Celia Vela, where the designer used a plethora of textures, prints, and fabrics with the intention of evoking what she describes as an involuntary emotional phenomenon, like falling in love for a lifetime. Models with crimped hair strutted the catwalk in tweed, wool and velvet; brocade, lace, and what may have once been Renaissance paintings. I'm not sure if I'm in love for a lifetime, but for the present, I'll allow myself to be entertained. I will give her points for the tears post show though. Romantic touch.

Manuel Bolano brought another two looks later in the day. I was uncertain at first as to whether these were Caroline because of how the makeup distorted the upper half of her heavenly visage, but in all honesty, I think I'd recognize that tell-tale cheek-sucking anywhere



I'm not very well-versed in Spanish culture, but the stereotypes that I am familiar with tell me that Bolano borrowed generously from the traditions of his homeland. Some of these elements that I picked out were probably the more obvious ones: accessorizing with massive bull horns, heavy woolen fabrics reminiscent of traditional ponchos, and neatly tailored blouses (Which I know have been worn by just about everyone, but for some reason, I have this image in my head of a strict Spanish woman in a crisp, white, bibbed blouse and a black skirt. Don't ask, cause I don't have an answer.). I'm also picking up on a bit of a nomadic feel. Anything else is currently over my head. Bolano did provide us with a poem in description of his collection though, which follows here:

Rehearsal for a farewell
Escape, escape towards a forest.
You can go or return
or ceasing to be better today forever
so do not go and you will not be ever.
Dark forest. You're cold.
Inanimate shadows haunt me.
I want to run but I can not
trees whisper
animals clothed me.
Being happy or suffer
now if you'll know what it feels like
sleep when the victim is you.

Right. So what I'm getting from this is that we're living in a world where we have been hurt in some way, but how so, I cannot say. Perhaps it is the bonds of a social position that keep us constricted, or an abusive family. Maybe we have lost a loved one. Either way, I think it's pretty clear that we're depressed, and looking for some kind of escape. 

The events of the poem are described as a "Rehearsal for a farewell" and sleep is brought up later on, as well as the idea of a temporary fix in lines 3 - 5, so I'm drawing that we are imagining our escape from whatever is going on through our dreams, just to get an idea of what things would be like if we decided to run away from it all. We lose ourselves in a forest, where things are dank and dark and difficult. We must hunt, and care for ourselves, because we are alone. And though we have left home with the intention of escaping, it seems we have leaped from the fire to the frying pan. 

The last lines are what really get me here. There is the contrast of "being happy" versus suffering, now that you "know what it feels like". It really gets at how we tend to romanticize ideas of the past (in the poem, we are thinking that a past life where we live in forests and live a nomadic lifestyle would be much better than the one we are presently leading) and ignore the dirty details. If we take those things into account, the past seems much more dangerous and foul a place than we imagine it in our heads. So in these verses, we are given the choice: we can choose to find escapism through happy, romanticized dreams of what life could be like, or we can actually follow through and find ourselves just as (or more) miserable. 

The counsel we receive in the final line: "Sleep when the victim is you." Your conscience is shouting "Don't run off into the woods, girl! It's dangerous out there, and you'll be alone and far from help! Sleep here, where you are safe!" Now, I don't personally advise for people dealing with depression to spend their lives sleeping because their dreams are happier places than their real lives. But hey, tragedy makes for some of the most excellent poetry!

Anyway, I hope you all get the connection between my interpretation of the poem and what's going on in the collection. The distraught and tear-stained faces of the models are a clue. 

Caroline concluded her stay in Barcelona with Yiorgos Eleftheriades, where she had two looks, including the opener. She also lead the finale:



I have to admit, when Caro came out in her second look, I had a bit of a giggle. Yiorgos Eleftheriades was the last show in Barcelona (not just for Caroline, but on the whole calendar), and I can't help but feel that she had that in mind as she vigorously power walked that last look, cause boy, were the head and hips swinging! :P

All jokes aside though, this was a great three days for The Brasch, with seven shows and thirteen looks, one opening slot, and one (two?) closings. There's no stopping Alla K though... Now that I think about it, I don't think she missed a single show, and she opened or closed each one of the ones she walked (or most of them, anyway). 

Caroline does not have a showcard for Copenhagen, so there is a possibility that we won't be seeing her until New York, but I feel certain that she'll make an appearance at some point. I'd love to see her power walk against Natasha Poly (who is expected in Denmark this season)... That would be a sight. 

Photos courtesy of 080barcelonafashion.com 

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Brain & Brasch : Welcome to Barcelona

Would you believe it, in my excitement over the upcoming fashion week in Copenhagen, I COMPLETELY forgot about Barcelona! And as luck would have it, Caroline is there (many thanks to Not So Swedish's Gill Ford for the tip! :). I say luck, but I guess it should have been expected. It's not like she didn't walk Barca last season. And she also seems determined to walk every fashion week that exists.

She started off yesterday with two looks at Brain & Beast. The Spanish label turned out a collection rife with combinations of bright and dark colours, cozy knitwear and leather, and an overarching theme of attention-grabbing tartans.



A few hours later, she showed up at Tsolo Munkh, a fashion house headed by Mongolian-born, Parisian-based designer Tsolmandakh Munkhuu. Munkhuu's brand is still in it's infancy, having only just been born last year, and I have to say, I'm interested in seeing how she develops as a designer. I skimmed through the collection, pick up on a lot of black, a lot of leather, and what I interpreted as a punky, nomadic style, which have been permeating a lot of collections in the past few years with the rise of Balmain, and the affinity of many off-duty models for leather jackets and motocross pants. But then I paid a bit more attention, and picked up on certain coloured elements of the line, and noted a kind of exotic feel to the clothes that is not unlike what I sometimes associate with Rick Owens. Reading the description, I learned that Munkhuu actually took a host of traditional Buddhist elements and silhouettes and integrated them into the collection, melding the forces of the modern west with the ancient eastern tradition. I'll have to do a bit of a reconsideration on Rick Owens' collections, but I wonder if he's drawing on similar influences and concepts? Either way, I'm intrigued by Munkhuu, and look forward to seeing her work evolve. Especially if she gives The Brasch the honour of closing her show.


Today, Caroline also walked for Justicia Ruano 9PM, but the day is not yet done, so I'll wait on that one until we see if she shows up anywhere else! I'm wondering whether she plans to stick around for all of Barcelona? Copenhagen starts on Wednesday, which is also the final day in Spain... Will she skip the first day of Copenhagen in favour of the tail-end of Barcelona, or vice-versa? Will she even go to Denmark at all? OH the suspense!

Photos courtesy of 080barcelonafashion.com